Real Dayaks and YouTube…
Hi,
All is well at work, I’m a little tired as today was quite busy with project planning. Worse, I had an 8:30AM meeting! (I normally don’t even leave the house until 8:30!). I had to wake up at 6AM! So, I’ll just answer two emails today: one very fast, one very long!
Keiko Wrote:
“I like your blog. Besides great photography, I really love your humor and personality! You should make videos for YouTube! Will you?”
Hmm, I thought of doing that, but I am not sure. I hate to even be in photographs, so it’s hard to imagine being in video! But I am considering it. hahahahaha 
By far, the most frequent question/request I receive is to see photos from projects rarely seen, and photos most cannot shoot (due to lack of access to the places).
Stephanie Wrote:
“Hi, I like your photos. You said before you went to Kalimantan. Are there naked people there, like in Papua? Do you have any tribal photos?“
Well, Stephanie, I have not seen any tribes that reside naked (beyond bathing). But I have visited The Dayak tribe, which is indigenous to Kalimantan, the 2nd largest island in the world.
Getting to the areas of Dayaks who live in very old and traditional ways is quite difficult. After hours driving into the mountains, I had to ride on the back of a motorcycle over rocks, hills and rickety old wooden bridges that were splintering apart, 10m above a rocky river of rushing water! At one point, when we were going up a steep hill, I had to jump off the bike because it was flipping backwards! Even with the craziness of getting to them, it was worth it!
*~ Dear Gravity: OK! I’m Fat, I Get That! ~*
On the way to the traditional Dayaks hidden deep in the forest, I saw other Dayaks who live more conventional lives. There were even Christian churches made of wood along the way, suggesting there is a cultural change taking place.
(This is not to say they are all turning Christian, but that there are Christian influences now: they may be forming a new hybrid religion of Christianity and old religion, as can be found on the island of Sumatra).
The deeper we drove to the hiddent Dayaks, the more primitive (Hmm, is this the best word?) their living became. On the mountain road (before needing the mountain bikes) houses were on one side of the road, and steep, green hills covered in foliage were on the other side of the road.
This photo shows 3 girls peeking out of their door at this strange guy walking around their home. This family actually is quite affluent, and as you can see, their door is quite modern. Their home is more modern than most in their area, which are mostly wooden shacks with no electricity.
The girl in blue on the left is so brave. She stayed at the window quite a lot and followed me around and stood for several photos.
There is a belief that if a foreigner visits Kalimantan, he has to be very careful to not associate with the local girls, or they may use magic to keep him there. One person I know told me of a cousin who went there, fell under such a spell, and never returned home. It was years since being home, yet he thought it was only a few weeks!
When driving to this area, we passed a very beautiful girl sitting alone on a rock in a green field, combing her long black hair with her fingers. Every guy in the vehicle was ripping neck muscles to turn their heads backwards Owl-style to look at that girl. Believe me, the girls do not need magic to capture men. *~ Hahaha ~*
While the girls’ home was somewhat modern, their next door neighbor, in contrast, lived in a wooden shack with no electricity. Also contrasting to the girls is the neighbor’s age. This lady is 110 years old! When we were walking around, she came walking out of the hills across the street carrying a basket of veggies she picked. She said she picks them herself on a regular basis, and adds them to rice that her son brings to her. She’s one of the sweetest people you will ever meet! We offered her some of our snacks, because it is obvious she as so little, but she asked “What about you? Will you have enough?” Wow. She was concerned for us more than herself. Even at 110, she’s a beautiful woman, and must have been super pretty when young. Oh, her life style and diet is so natural, that she said she’s NOT the oldest in the area!
After leaving this area, we drove more and more in the truck to where we got the mountain bikes. After a very fun (really, it was!) but scary ride, we arrived in a place I was shocked to see. it was really like going back in time, relative to their living conditions. But, their manner of dress was more modern with typical shorts and shirts.
We were told the children just recently began going to school (again, either hours walk in the mountains, or riding on back of mountain bikes), which is a great news to hear. The people were quite open to me, given I showed up unannounced for my 1 hour visit.
Looking around, I first noticed there was a regulation sized badminton court made entirely out of bamboo! The people were sitting out doors chatting.
But also scary because I could only imagine what it is like to grow up in this type of place, literally hours away from any hospitals or help in case of emergencies. Actually they did have electricity: a single tiny solar panel (maybe 1.5ft x 1.5ft in size) that was used to power a single radio, so they may listen to weather forecasts in case of severe weather conditions.
Homes were high off the ground on logs used as stilts. Under the houses lived live stock (If you look close in the community photo above, you will see a huge sow (female pig/hog) and her piglets feeding from her).
Housing was not the only difference between the traditional and partly-modern Dayaks, religion is too. I described the wooden churches of the first set of Dayaks. These traditional Dayaks have huge animal jaw bones mounted on wooden staffs, along with bloody blue jeans and jackets! The bone was as wide as my head, and it had deep cuts into it, as if it was hit by an axe! There were one staff in each corner of the compound. Magic is definitely used in this place. I’m still researching the exact use of this. I’m also curious what animal bone is it! I’ve never seen such a huge jaw bone!
The children were very open and curious. It was a mixture of curiosity, shyness and desire to be photographed. This one girl really wanted her photo taken, but very shy. I made funny faces at her so she feel more at ease and give a natural smile. After two photos, she really got into it, moving her hair, and twisting this way and that way for each photo.
Bravery vs. Shyness: Indonesia’s Next Top Model
The youngest ones also were so brave! She and her brothers liked to play hide and seek with the camera hahaha!
Dayak Girl: Queen of the Mountain
There was even a newborn girl, yet to be named! She was very bright eyed!
Ok, Next time I will answer more questions (I’m avoiding the “what are the Indonesian Girls like?” ones, as I do not want my friends, mostly girls, to try to kill me!).
Take Care!
A Man-made Disaster
I’m currently at home nursing a very bad cold. I actually started this blog in my head Sunday morning, when I received an emergency SMS and call from a friend saying “Rodney! Get your camera! Lots of people are being evicted from their homes into the street by hundreds of police!” I could hear the rain outside, even though I was half asleep. Hearing of this news brought me to full attention. I got dressed fast, forgetting to take a shower, grabbed my camera, and jumped into the taxi. This blog is about what I saw. These are just a few photos taken that day.
I traveled to an area called Rawasari in central Jakarta. Hundreds of police and health officials were there as people scurried from place to place, carrying all they could before the steam shovel destroyed their homes and businesses. Maybe you wonder “why???” It’s simple: the businesses and the houses were there illegally for over 5 years.
It began to rain more. I’m soaked, my hat’s soaked, and my bag’s soaked. Thank God for Canon’s L lenses, which are weather sealed but cost me each over US $1000, and B+W Multi Resistant Coating filters that are harder and clearer than glass, and are water and dirt repellent. These filters cost me a small fortune, but all of lenses are protected with this filter on the front of it: a true blessing in the heavy rain and heavy dust in the air (due to the demolition).
My camera, the Canon 20D, was not as lucky as it is not weather sealed, but it’s my baby and I’m never selling it. It held up in the pouring rain, but I had to keep drying it with a very wet shirt. The viewfinder still has water evaporating *cry*. My 20D is like an aging quarterback: it’s doing the job, but getting old and soon will need to be benched to make room for a new rookie. I am in desperate need of a professional camera body to match my professional lenses, and the 20D can be its backup.
Hundreds of on-lookers were on the bridges with mobile phone cameras, pocket cameras and video cameras as people splashed in the mud and rising sewer water, carrying anything they could save from demolition. A famous TV reporter was on the scene talking to people. I’ve never seen so many grown men crying.
Chinese ceramics were stored everywhere: under bridges, sitting in the mud, and in the street. The ground around the store was covered in sharp, broken ceramic pieces. My feet got may scrapes, but luckily no deep cuts. People in flip-flops trekked through ankle-deep trashy, muddy waters with arms-full of items. It was a truly harsh scene.
The businesses are extremely successful, albeit illegally built, and filled to the brim with imported Chinese ceramics, vases and such. It’s said Rawasari also has some of the best deals on top-quality rattan furniture. Storeowners stored their expensive vases and goods under the bridges and underpasses. Rattan furniture was sitting in the rain. Even more goods just sat in the mud in the rain, in hopes it was far enough from the buildings so they would not be damaged during the destruction.
Behind the stores, business owners had built a hidden kampong full of rundown buildings, which they rented to dozens of impoverished families for US $15-30 a month for the privilege of living illegally. Most of the men work as trash collectors. All inhabitants were giving just a week’s warning by the government, and offered US $50, to move to other locations.
The kampong inhabitants wanted to accept the money and move, but their business owner landlords wanted to stay and fight, and would not allow their kampong tenants to leave. Because tenants could not leave, they could not accept the money offer. Now their homes are destroyed, and they are out of money.
Children were everywhere. One little boy, who did not live in Rawasari, came from his safe home, in the torrential downpour, to look for his little friend. He was visibly upset because no one knew where his friend’s family was, and their home was already torn to bits. He just kept walking in the rain with his head down past the broken buildings.
I was less than a meter from all going on. I took photo after photo as the hundreds of officials carrying wands and enforcement sticks stormed the buildings, evacuating people (but not by force, unless absolutely needed). I even walked into the structures with the officers, 2 people behind the leader. Amazing, they allowed me. Maybe my “national geographic” hat and camera made me seem I’m there in an official capacity.
I went everywhere my chubby body could fit. I got hit on the head a few times tiny pieces of wood or pebbles but was quite fine. My friend was terrified to follow some places I went, and called me on my mobile to scream “The steam shovel’s coming! Get out of there!”
I ventured deeper and deeper, finding new places people were hidden and lived. In a panic, they were collecting all of their items into trash barrels to move out. I saw the famous reporter talking to an old woman. She smiled and waved and asked if I want to come in. I waved back and kept going hahaha. *~ OMG She’s Super Cute! ~*
People were running out of buildings with items literally seconds before their exits were caved in by the steam shovel. It was a gruesome site.
There is a ton more I could write… I will later.
Next post: Illegal Mining in Kalimantan, and color (yes, color!) photos
Bahasa Indonesia Lesson for Today:
Sudah: Finished
Take Care!